HERE’S THE THING about pizza. It’s something most of us love, a food we develop deeply personal bonds with and opinions about. For example: where I grew up in South Central Pennsylvania, pizza was simply a hand-tossed, electric oven–baked pie dressed with tomato sauce and shredded mozzarella. In Kansas City, where a good pal’s from, I tried a St. Louis–style pie with a cracker-thin crust and a white processed cheese blend called Provel. When my brother attended the University of Chicago, he discovered deep dish.
Without question, pizza is many things to many people. Americans will adamantly defend their regional styles, but that’s the beauty of this beloved
food. Unlike those who profess to be purists — people who believe good pizza exists only in New York, or won’t stretch their palates past a Neopolitan
pie — I adore pizza in all its styles and incarnations. And even though I’m on the road a lot, it’s pizza I typically seek out first. Why? Well, even though
it’s crust, sauce and cheese in its most fundamental state, what people all over the country have done with these three humble ingredients is some kind
of wonderful and, in my perpetually hungry heart, absolutely worth celebrating. Here’s a handy guide to noteworthy pizzas nationwide.
GG’s, New York, N Y This is the newest
shop on the list, but it’s earned a rightful spot for its take on a local specialty,
grandma pizza. For his version, chef Bobby
Hellen double-bakes his thick crust and
tops it with a deep, herbaceous sauce,
Brooklyn-made mozzarella, little pepperonis
and fresh basil. ggsnyc.com
Al Forno, Providence, RI
The specialty of this beloved Italian
restaurant is grilled pizzas. The crust
bears proper grill marks and is pull-apart chewy and subtly smoky. The
crushed tomato sauce is tangy and
vibrant, while Fontina cheese and
shaved scallions add an unexpected
refined finish. alforno.com
Pequod’s Pizza, Chicago, IL
There’s no shortage of deep dish in
the Windy City, but what makes the
pizzas doled out here so exceptional
is the famous caramelized cheese
crust. Before baking, a thin layer of
cheese is sprinkled around the rim of
the pan, yielding an irresistibly chewy
and lacy texture. pequodspizza.com
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana,
New Haven, CT Today there are eight
locations of this family-owned operation,
but it’s the original one on Wooster Street
you’ll want to check out. As for what to
order? The white clam pie, which is loaded
with chopped clams, mozzarella, garlic and
olive oil. pepespizzeria.com
Domenica, New Orleans, LA
Locals and epicurean travelers alike beeline to this John Besh eatery for rustic
Italian fare, like charcuterie and pastas.
Naturally, the wood-fired pizzas are also
solid, with styles ranging from traditional
to original. ( The Tutto Carne is topped
with salami, fennel sausage and a runny
egg.) domenicarestaurant.com
Joe’s Pizza, New York, N Y If there’s
one thing New York has perfected, it’s the
grab-and-go slice. And the ones you can
get here are arguably the city’s best. No
matter the time of day, you’ll consistently
be presented with a warm, balanced
and foldable slice for a reasonable price.
joespizzanyc.com
Totonno’s, Brooklyn, N Y
Though this shop is tucked away in a nondescript pocket of Coney Island, people
from the surrounding five boroughs (and
beyond) still flock here for the dependably thin and crispy pies, lightly dressed
with a bright tomato sauce and melty
mozzarella, and crisped up in coal ovens.
totonnosconeyisland.com A N
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