If You Go
WHERE TO STAY Raju’s Cottage, Goshaini,
goshaini@yahoo.com or + 91 9459833124,
+ 91 9625211848. This rustically lovely, seven-room lodge on the Tirthan River is owned and
operated by Raju Bharti, who spearheaded
the movement to save the river from being
dammed. The tariff per person, per night is
1,250 to 1,600 Rs. and includes all meals and
nonalcoholic beverages, including juices from
locally grown apples and plums. The meals
(vegetarian and nonvegetarian) are prepared
by Raju’s wife, who is a legendary cook. The
lodge can organize treks in the surrounding
areas, including the Great Himalayan National
Park and Sakiran Peak, mountain biking trips,
and angling in the Tirthan River. The lodge
can assist you in arranging taxi service from
Bhuntar Airport or Aut.
TREK ON For exploring other parts of the
western Indian Himalayas, I recommend
Himalayan River Runners, info@himalayan
riverrunners.com. This adventure travel company is owned and operated by the celebrated
Indian mountaineer Yousuf Zaheer, who has
provided me with invaluable assistance in
organizing my expeditions.
HOW TO GE T THERE Domestic airlines fly daily from Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi to Bhuntar Airport in
Kullu, Himachal Pradesh, and flying time is about one-and-a-half hours. Taxi service to the town of Goshaini in the Tirthan
River Valley takes about two-and-a-half hours. Flights to Bhuntar can be canceled on short notice because of bad weather.
Delhi-based Nexxtop India Tours, info@nexxtopindia.com, can make your flight reservations and will help you rebook in the
event of a cancellation. Luxury Volvo buses (1,300 Indian Rs.) are more reliable and economical. They depart daily from Delhi
around 6 p.m. and arrive at the town of Aut around 6 a.m. the next day. You can book seats at hptdc.nic.in or makemytrip.com.
Swagatam Holidays, Himachal Pradesh Tourism (HPTDC) and Harison Travels are recommended bus operators. The websites
do not list Aut as a destination. Book your reservation to Manali, several hours past Aut, and, before you board the bus, inform
the bus driver that you want to get off at Aut. Drivers are usually cooperative and will drop you off at Aut. A taxi from Aut to
Goshaini takes about one hour.