This page, clockwise
from top: Setting up the
military tents, which by
the third day looked like
they had been through
a major battle and were
falling apart; the river
camp after the pass was
the nicest campsite on
the trek; a camel carries
Koutsaftis’ Patagonia
bag that he has used
since 1997. Opposite:
Reluctant camels cross
an icy river on the way
to base camp.
are no villages on the way, just rocks, rocks and more
rocks. The views are quite good, but not as spectacular as
the approach along the Baltoro Glacier. What I find most
interesting is the wild remoteness of the place — no other
groups on the trail. In places like Nepal you have to race to
get a camping spot.
Kulang Jilga
After three more days and that same number of discussions
(arguments) with the camel drivers — by now becoming
a daily routine — we arrive at Kulang Jilga, where we will
stay for the next three days. The camp is in a cold and barren place on the plateau at almost 13,000 feet and the camel
drivers are again becoming skittish. I start hearing talk of
the men going home early, complaints of low food supply, not
enough firewood, concern that the camels might wander off
